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Apia Harbor, Western Samoa -Sept. 12, 1999
Position: Apia Harbor, Western Samoa -Sept. 12, 1999 Western Samoa is the end of our westward cruising for this pacific leg. Our cruising to the west from the Galapagos has been pleasant sailing with no major storms while at sea, favorable winds and truly the right time of the year to make this passage. From here we turn south for Tonga and New Zealand. Western, or Independent, Samoa is very different from American Samoa. It is back to the island tradition and living. Arriving late Sat. we had hoped to go to one of the local churches on Sunday. Proceeding to shore we were stopped by the customs officer advising that we were not allowed to leave the boat until cleared on Monday AM. We pleaded for permission to attend church to fulfill our religious dedication to which he consented. We did attend a wonderful old small wooden Congregational church. Everyone joins in song with strong voices, welcoming smiles and dressed in sparkling white, including the Pastor. We extended our religious time well beyond lunch so we did not loose a day in Samoa and with no further rumbling from customs. Sunday is a family day in Samoa. When we woke up the hillside was filled with smoke. The villagers everywhere light fires to warm the stones needed for the umus-ground ovens used to bake Sunday lunch and for other festive occasions. The food is wrapped in taro, palm and banana leaves and covered with more leaves and wet mats. The food consists of root vegetables, fish, chicken, pork, beef, coconut cream, papaya, bananas and large quantities of anything and everything. There were a large number of yachts anchored in Samoa Apia harbor. It is very popular for boaters even though it is not a great anchorage. It has quite shallow water and is very open to the sea but it is very picturesque and has a wonderful sea wall and park. We were fortunate to be in Apia for the week of the Teuila festival, which is a flower. There were bands and parades every day, craft demonstrations, and all their products on sale-similar to out state fairs. Tapa cloth, wood carvings, paintings, woven mats, dyed fabrics, jewelry made from coconut shells, sea shells, bone, flowers and anything you can think of - all good bargains, of course. One of the entertaining events was a race of skill for the men. First they climbed a coconut tree, cut down the coconuts, husked them, made a woven basket from the leaves, filled the basket with the coconuts and the husks and ran to the finish line. It was very a very funny exercise as some where quick, but their baskets fell apart in haste. Samoans are certainly fun loving people. The outstanding event was the parade of flower floats with all the Miss Samoan candidates, many in lovely traditional costumes. The floats would equal the Rose Bowl Parade in color, beauty and originality. It was a very special event I feel fortunate to have seen. Another part of the Festival was the large canoe race of about 5km. There were 8 canoes, 80 ft long with each having 40 strong Samoan paddlers two deep. They also had a drummer, whistler and caller for the rhythm. They practiced around the harbor every early evening passing right by SeaQuell. It was good cocktail entertainment. Every islander and visitor was there for this event which turned out to be an exciting race with almost a photo finish. The traditional winner was again successful. A long time landmark is the Aggie Gray Hotel, the only major hotel in town. It is renown for its traditional South Pacific style and as a family operation. Aggie started the hotel in the war days selling hamburgers to American military personnel. Through her energetic and personable ways she built a first class hotel that is known throughout the South Pacific. One night a week they have a traditional island show put on by the employees. All the hotel guests, many were "yachties", and other tourists numbering 300 filled their dinning room to overflowing for an elaborate buffet dinner and entertaining show. It was definitely one of the best we have seen in our pacific travels. Many have stated that Aggie Gray was the character that Michener portrayed as Bloody Mary in his "Tales of the South Pacific". Another of the noted tourist attractions was the "Return to Paradise"
beach where the movie-same name- was made. We expected a nice resort
and beach. After paying $5 to enter the beach we found that it had only
a few dilapidated buildings in which a few natives lived and a difficult
swimming beach with an undertow. There were other resorts that were
nice but not as populated or as glamorous as Bora-Bora-still tropical
but more native. |
